Puttin’ the WOW in Powwow

By Bennett Owen

Credit: Donnie Sexton (c) at  Travel Montana

Crow call it Baasaxpilue (to make much noise). It is considered the largest American Indian Tipi encampment in the US, and it’s in place for the next four nights…The Crow Fair, celebrating its 93^rd year at  Crow Agency on the banks of the Little Bighorn River, (yes, THAT Little Bighorn) south of Billings, Montana. Organizers bill it as “a giant family reunion under the Big Sky.”

Crow Fair, c.1940. Credit: Marion Wolcott, Library of Congress

Crow Fair, c.1940. Credit: Marion Wolcott, Library of Congress

Crow Fair in Montana, c. 1930 Credit: BBHC McCracken Collection

Crow Fair, Montana. Credit: Crow Voices

The biggest attraction is the rodeo but this gathering is also aimed at keeping alive the rich traditions of the Plains Indians.

There is drumming –

And children –

Credit: Susan NYC

Credit: Susan NYC

Credit: Susan NYC

And color –

Credit: Susan NYC

Credit: Susan NYC

And dancing -

I’m a pale skin and this sound scares the crap out of me. There are also contests for regalia, such as the War Bonnet, War Shirt and other traditional garb.

Credit: Susan NYC

The festivities attract up to 50,000 people to this remote outpost on the prairie. Perhaps more importantly, more than 10,000 Crow people gather for the annual powwow. The culture is alive here – an estimated 85 percent of tribal people still speak Crow as their first language, fiercely proud of their reputation as a ‘horse people.’  In a recent interview with the Indian Country Media Network, Crow Tribal Historic Preservation Officer, Dale Old Horn, said, “The celebration of our way of life is predicated on the very visible expression of our native beliefs in our ceremonies and rituals.”  Rituals preserved and passed on at Crow Fair.

Credit: Susan NYC

Ellensburg, Washington – Cowboy Capital

by Bennett Owen

“He could ride…woah he could ride. Yakima Canutt could ride the devil off a horse’s hide. Woah he could ride, he could ride, ride, ride…by God that Yakima could ride.”

Juni Fisher        

Ellensburg, Washington – Only about 90 miles southeast of Seattle but separated by that magnificent lifestyle divide known as the Cascade Range…home to one of America’s oldest, biggest and most prestigious Rodeos

Photo courtesy of reverendkomissar.

and for the past seven years, the Spirit of the West Cowboy Gathering, a winter weekend celebration of cowboy music, poetry and the western mystique.

The headliners here aren’t selling out football stadiums. But they are committed and supremely talented musicians nonetheless and their songs are poetry born of understanding, for they are historians as well. One has the feeling these performers are cowboys first and foremost and their biographies provide the pedigree.  A perfect fit for Ellensburg.

Photo courtesy of reverendkomissar.

Photo courtesy of FreeOperator

Downtown USA, a showcase of 19^th century western architecture, you know, the kind that makes you wonder why you ever left home.

Ranch roping, a chuck wagon cook off, square dancing, fiddle contests…sounds like quite a weekend. I suspect Ellensburg put its music festival in February to lighten up the winter doldrums a bit, since a recent peek at the online edition of the Daily Record newspaper headlined an avalanche on Snoqualmie Pass and the highlight on the event calendar was Contradancing.

But Ellensburg has plenty of local color and in an ongoing effort to serve our loyal readers we offer some friendly sightseeing advice:

• Central Washington University - The lovely campus actually holds a dark secret…yes, Kamola Hall is said to be haunted by a one-time co-ed who hung herself from  the rafters after hearing that her beloved had been killed in action… though there is speculation as to which war.

Photo courtesy of Pictoscribe

• The Yellow Church Café – Located in an old German Lutheran church, the food is heavenly, service is non-denominational and my advice is to pray for a miracle to get a reservation.
• A look at my trusty “Roadside America” App dictates a must-stop at “Dick and Jane’s Spot.” A quirky artist colony whose proprietors live by the dictum, “one hearty laugh is worth 10 trips to the doctor.”  Now those are words to live by.

Photo courtesy of Ellensburg.com

Here’s Don Edwards performing Little Joe the Wrangler: