Ahwahnee – New Lustre for the Crown Jewel – Part II

By Bennett Owen

Photo courtesy of Chris Dunstan

The magnificent façade only vaguely prepares the unsuspecting visitor for what awaits inside…an unlikely yet sumptuous amalgamation of art deco, American Indian and oriental influences housed in magnificent, monumental great rooms:

The California Room, The Writing room and the Dining room with its 34-foot high ceiling:

Photo Courtesy of Steve Corey

And in the Great Lounge, a fireplace big enough to park a model T in:

Photo courtesy of Ellipses Public Relations

Phyllis Ackerman and Arthur Upham Pope did the interior design, fighting pitched battles with Underwood to bring their marvelous vision to life.

Ms. Ackerman’s single most important victory was the design for the stained glass ceiling to floor windows in the Great Lounge…she described Underwood’s original plan an “execrable fenestration…” Obviously her skills at interior design far outweighed any knack for diplomacy.

Photo courtesy of Rennett Stowe

Ackerman and Pope were given carte blanche, responsible for all design specifications -- colors, floors, fabrics, rugs, beds, mattresses, linens, lighting fixtures, flatware. And the result was nothing less than sublime.

Photo courtesy of Ralphman

Ahwahnee made its debut on July 14, 1927 with a gala opening attended by the rich and famous of the day. By the time they departed, the hotel was all but stripped bare:

"...the beautiful people of the era, departed happily... laden with memories and ‚mementos’ ranging from pewter ink stands and ash trays to hand-loomed blankets and bedspreads! Among the items included in the astounding theft were prized Indian baskets which had been displayed on the mezzanine near the elevator...."

Gosh, and I still feel guilty for stealing a hotel bathrobe as a honeymoon memento.

Photo courtesy of The Restaurant Ware: Collectors Network

Little of the original decoration remains but renovations have been true to the vision of the creators.  The Ahwahnee is considered the crown jewel of National Park residences and as of March 17th (2011) that crown must include emeralds, as the grand hotel emerged from a month-long hibernation on Saint Patrick’s Day.  It was the last push in a multi-year refurbishing of the interior, along with a less publicized and vaguely ominous-sounding project termed ‘seismic retrofitting.’ 

For more information, the following websites are outstanding and indispensable:

American Buddha Online Library: Ahwahnee Hotel

Oriental Rug Review: The Grand Gesture

The Gilbert Stanley Underwood showcase will continue here at My-West…as soon as I can replenish my supply of superlatives.

Sunset on Half Dome. Photo courtesy of jurvetson